Tuesday, April 28, 2009

27 April 2009 - Berlin

I went back to Kreuzburg and the Oberbaumbrücke, but this time I crossed over the Spree Fluss and explored the other side of the bridge, what was once East Berlin.

On the East Berlin side of the Spree, there is a mile-long stretch of the Berlin Wall that's still standing, covered in paint, graffiti, and art. It's called the East Side Gallery, and is quite well-known as a historical landmark.

Large sections of the East Side gallery are actually blank right now, nothing but smooth white or grey concrete. It's in the process of being restored--many of the original artists are recreating their art from long ago. Due to be completed in Fall 2009, much of the East Side gallery cannot be seen.

However, I managed to find Lyle the Crocodile--but again, only a portion. It seems as if I am not destined to take a photo of the complete graphic, as this time I was thwarted by the restoration of the wall itself.

There was a tourist shop built into the East Side Gallery, similarly covered in paint and art (or something along those lines). Rather strange, compared to the artwork that was on the wall itself.

One can find all sorts of odds and ends on the wall-- here I found Mr. Potato-Head and some other faces peeking out at the street.

Besides the tourist shop, the wall that makes up the East Side Gallery is interrupted at various different spots along its mile-long stretch. Here is a gate that was so painted and covered with art that I thought it was just another section of the wall--until someone pushed it open and walked through it. It was a bit like the Secret Garden.

This is a close-up shot of a portion of the wall-- these faces, to me, are really haunting and a little creepy. So desolate, it seems.

The last section of the East Side Gallery, covered in paint, ideas, and thoughts 'til the very end.

We walked on to Alexander Platz, and then towards Unter den Linden and the Brandenburger Tor, and arrived at the Holocaust Memorial. It is a stiking memorial, in the middle of a large Platz, nothing but blocks of stone, of varying heights, located in an otherwise empty square. The blocks are short at first, and it seems as if they continue throughout the Platz, on a slight slope.

However, as you walk among the slabs into the center of the memorial, the ground slopes down, and the blocks of stone get higher and higher. You can see only the grey stone and blue sky. The noise from the busy streets fades away and the sun becomes dim. There is nothing but coolness and stillness. It is... memorable.

Afterwards, I walked up Freidrich Str., over the Spree towards Oranienburger Str. to go to A and Rs apartment, for little Cs very first birthday party! It was just lovely-- the birthday boy was darling and very cute, as he crawled around and ate some cake, the parents were happy and relaxed as they enjoyed the company of family and friends, and the weather was gorgeous. Some young cousins of the birthday boy were there as well, ages 3, 7, and 8 years old, and they had a great time locking me (and the two great-grandpas) out on the terrace, laughing at my name ('Alex ist ein Junges Name!'), and correcting my German--which was actually quite helpful! All in all, it was a marvelous time, so wonderful!

26 April 2009 - Berlin

Berlin has burst and become completely purple, yellow, and green. The spring blossoms are gone, but now there are the beginnings of summer flowers everywhere.

Not only that, but the scent of lilacs is all around-- which is very pleasant to walk through.

It is also Spargal-Zeit (asparagus season), and there are roadside asparagus stands everywhere you look. They are much bigger than the asparagus in the US and are usually white.

More purple, yellow, and green.

And more, along Lindenthaler Allee.

25 April 2009 - Berlin

We decided to have a "Wannsee Tag" and spend the day at Wannsee, a large lake on the outskirts of Berlin.

M and I decided that we should have a picnic, and so everyone brought something good to eat. I, of course, wanted to bring tomatoes, basil, and mozzarella-- my favorite summer treat-- and so before I took the S-1 to the Wannsee station, I went to the market by Mexicoplatz and successfully bargained and bartered my way through and bought the veggies and cheese.

Upon arrival, however, it was discovered that we forgot bread (read: the people who were supposed to bring bread did not show up). So, it was clearly necessary to hit up the nearest Backerei (bakery).

Wannsee is just gorgeous, and there are so many areas to explore.

There are so many little sailboats and beaches and so much more! Also, many many tourists and visitors, especially on the weekends! This and the above photo from M.

This one as well. The Wannsee station.


Friday, April 24, 2009

23 April 2009 - Berlin

Another somewhat dark and unpredictable day-- weather-wise, at least. I gave my first Referat (oral presentation) in German, detailing the history of the Oberbaumbrücke.

I walked around Oranienburger Str. on the way to A and Rs house. I came from a different direction than I had before, and I was able to see the area from a whole new angle. This is a side of the Kunsthaud Tacheles, a sort of ancient building that has (it seems, at least) to have been taken over by artists. I'm not sure of the exact history or story, but there were some striking pieces of art, both on the building itself and behind it.

Another view of the area around the Tacheles-- I think the name Tacheles means a place where one can be blunt, one can speak what is on one's mind, but I am not certain...

This is the view behind the Tacheles-- art installations, I think. Or a psuedo-junkyard.

I saw this out of the corner of my eye as I was taking the former photo. It reminds me of Lyle Crocodile, and I tried to get a better view of the graffiti by standing on the bench of a street-side Döner (Kebab house), but the owner ran out and yelled at me.

22 April 2009 - Berlin

A twisty day-- one was that fittingly matched by the weather. It rained off and on all day, and the wind was "blowing hard". Sadly, I was not wearing my rainboots, and this day was the only opportunity so far to justify me bringing them. Schade (what a pity).

We went on an Exkursion (excursion) to an exhibition called "Topography des Terrors". Located by Potsdamer Platz, the empty lot was the site of the Gestapo, SS, and SD buildings, the heart of Hitler's operations. This is a view of a remaining section of the Berlin Wall, and behind, in front of the Museum, is a temporary building, the exhibit, and the complicated remains of a troubled history.

Next to the controversial site was this Berliner Bär, one of many one can find around Berlin. This one stood alongside what used to the Reich Air Ministry-- the only surviving major building from the Nazi era. Again, one of the main arteries of the regime.

On a slightly more upbeat note, we went to Konzerthaus Berlin (Shauspielhaus) to hear a performance to hear a new composition by Elliot Carter, followed by Mahler's 6th Symphony. I didn't care for the modern piece by Carter (there was also an unidentified instrument in the performance that none of us could figure out or understand), but Mahler's symphony was fantastic-- one of his earlier works, so it was more cheerful and happy than his later compositions (as he himself was slightly more upbeat and happy).

Hearing the music made me realize that is was ten years ago (10 years) that ECGC performed Mahler's 8th Symphony with the Boston Philharmonic in Boston Symphony Hall and Carnegie Hall. A lifetime ago, it seems.

Thursday, April 23, 2009

21 April 2009 - Berlin

Back in Berlin, back in Germany! I was so relieved to be in a place where I a) could navigate successfully around the city, b) speak the language and understand signs, and c) sleep in my own bed. In fact, I was surprised how at how eased I felt once I was back in the Hauptbahnhof.

Classes are back in full swing-- we actually have work this week and the next, which is shocking. I explored an area around Kreuzburg, in order to prepare for a Referat (oral presentation). This is Oberbaumbrücke, an important landmark in Berlin.

A detail shot of the interior of the bridge, which is a double-decked bridge, with a pedestrian walkway, a level for cars, and a level for the U-Bahn.

The view from the bridge.

Oberbaumbrücke was surrounded by lots of art, both official (the East Side Gallery) and unofficial art (graffiti in general, but beautiful nonetheless).

More views from the bridge.

More art.

This one is a little disturbing...

I'm not sure what this installation is, but it had a little path that wended its way through statues that was quite charming.

Another installation on the Kreuzburg side of the bridge.

There was also an art installation on the bridge itself. At night, two light boxes at opposite ends of the bridge play Stein-Papier-Schere (rock-paper-scissors). The neon lights are controlled by a generator, which randomly generate the contours of an outstretched hand, a fist, or a hand with two splayed fingers. The installation, according to the artist, is built on a spot where two political systems contronted each other and explores how decisions are made.

A last glimpse of the Oberbaumbrücke.

17-19 April 2009 - Prag, Czech Republic

While I made it to the bus stop in Vienna more than an hour before the bus to Prague was to depart, the other members of my party were not so inclined, as they ran up to the bus just before it pulled away from the curb. Nonetheless, we made it to the Florenc bus station in Prague-- and it started to rain. We decided it would be worth it to take a taxi to the guys' hostel, and we still got lost. However, we did happen to drive through the one area in Prague that I was familiar with: the Tesla Ice Arena and the surrounding neighborhoods-- we even picked up free wireless internet (in order to look up the correct address of the hostel) outside the Hotel Expo, where we used to stay when we were competing in Prague!

The other area in Prague that I knew rather well-- I don't know the official name, but I call it the Clock Square in Old Town. Since I didn't have a working cell phone, I arranged to meet my friends here by the clock at 6pm.

Unfortunately, that's when the clock rang in the hour, so there was a huge crowd and lots of confusion. It was awhile before I managed to find my friends. Here's a detail shot of the famed clock. Like in München, crowds gathered religiously every time it was due to go off.

Rainy Prague, but decked out with Easter and Spring decorations. There were tons of market stalls, lots of food, and live music and entertainment (including a little boy were sang while playing the accordian).

The view from the top of the Clock Tower, a glimpse of Prague Castle and lots of red roofs.

We passed this as we walked up to Prague Castle. I spotted what looked (to me) like a Masonic symbol at the top, so naturally, I was quite curious and liked it very much.

A guard outside Prague Castle. I remember first seeing them in 2005 and taking a picture with them. This time, I refrained from doing so.

We went into the cathedral at Prague Castle, a spectacular building with gorgeous stained glass windows and intricate decorations. The part I enjoyed the most, however, was finding this small room within the vast space. Compared to the rest of the cathedral, at first glance, this seems to be a rather homely room. However, the door in the back right-hand side of the picture has seven disguised keyholes worked into the decoration. Going along with the locks, there are seven keys, each of which is given to a high-ranking official in the Czech Republic. The door can only be opened if all seven keys are present, however, but behind the door is a staircase that goes up, up to the highest part of the castle, which is where the crown jewels are kept. I'm so intrigued by this story, it's like a fairy-tale or something similar.

After the castle, we wandered around Old Town and happened upon this, this site? Memorial? Art installation? I'm not sure what it is, but it's striking.

My friends showed us the John Lennon wall, which, as a result of the gloom and misty weather, was more somber than usual, but still very colourful.

My only shot of the famous Charles bridge-- a rather incognito photo.

Tuesday, April 21, 2009

16 April 2009 - Wien, Österreich

I made it to Vienna earlier than expected-- at last, my OCD travel tendencies paid off, for I arrived at the Salzburg train station with so much time to spare before my planned train was to depart that I was able to get on a much earlier Zug (train).

I went straight to the Hofburg Imperial Palace, the preferred winter residence of the Habsburg dynasty (Marie Antoinette-- formerly Maria Antonia-- was born here). This is part of the palace, the National Library.

Another part of the Hofburg, which is located in the heart of Vienna. This man paused right as I was taking the photo-- and it just so happens that his clothing colour scheme exactly corresponds with the vibrant colours of the gate.

One of the three famous Winterhalter portraits of Empress 'Sisi'. This was Emperor Franz Joseph's study, and as you can see, he kept this painting of his beloved wife by his desk in his study. I found, as I learned more about the famed and beautifully tragic Empress Elisabeth, that I am quite fascinated with her. She was so modern in many ways, and so far above the inner tangles of the Viennese Imperial court.

The Hofburg housed several wonderful museums, including a showcase of many of the china and silver sets of the palace. This set in particular was spectacular: Queen Victoria gave it to one of the Habsburgs, but liked the set so much that she kept some of it in Buckingham Palace. I love the colours and the cutout sections.

There was a huge festival going on in front of the Wien Rathaus, complete with music, food, Bier, and so on. Everyone seemed to be running around in traditional garb and costumes-- it was a very high-energy event, whatever it was.

This is the Austrian National Theater, located right across from the Rathaus, in the center of the city.

This is Karlskirche, by Karlsplatz, a gorgeous building, surrounded by a great open space where children played, people lounged and read and sunbathed, and tourists gawked.

Another Platz by Karlsplatz-- the mist felt great on the hot day. Note the rough rocks that make up the fountain, amid the polished square of statues and sculptures.

I made my way to the favorite summer palace of the Habsburg dynasty: Schönbrunner Schloss, located a little bit away from the main part of the city. The palace has extensive gardens of labyrinths, flower gardens, and more. This is the Tiergarten (the zoo), a quite amazing building set within high hedges and winding paths of gravel.

This is a glimpse of Schönbrunner Schloss from the gardens. There were also little structures and buildings scattered around the grounds, which were fun to stumble upon.

Schönbrunner Schloss from the main courtyard. Quite impressive, as I thought, and I had fun running up the main starway to the top balcony (I wanted to see what Wien looked like from the vantage point of a Habsburg Kaiser).